INFLATION & DEFLATION

CAUTION: OVERPRESSURE IS A LEADING CAUSE OF DAMAGE TO RAFTS!Select an area free of sharp objects such as rocks, roots, ordebris. Unfold the raft and lay it out flat. CAUTION: TO AVOID TEARS, DO NOT STAND ON THE RAFT DURING INFLATION! Open all valves including the thwart valves. The raft can be inflated by using a foot pump, hand pump, or any other low-pressure pump. HIGHPRESSURE DEVICES SUCH AS A SERVICE STATION COMPRESSOR SHOULD NOT BE USED!

The raft is divided into air chambers differentiated by bulkheads. The raft should be inflated sequentially as shown in illustration #1. Initially, the raft should be semi-inflated to take shape. Then, reversing the order, inflate to full pressure until it is firm. How firm is firm? You should be able to depress the surface of the tube with moderate finger pressure. GET A LOW-RANGE PRESSURE GAUGE AND TEST WHAT OPERATING PRESSURE FEELS LIKE! Operating pressure for the main raft tubes and thwarts is 1.5 to 2.5 PSI.

Overpressuring the raft will reduce tear and puncture resistance. Extreme overpressure can cause structural failure. Top operating pressure is 2.5 PSI. Pressure changes with changes in barometric pressure and temperature.
CAUTION: MONITOR AND ADJUST PRESSURE THROUGHOUT THE DAY! ON SUNNY DAYS AND WHEN THE RAFT IS PULLED ASHORE YOU MUST PERFORM PERIODIC AIR PRESSURE CHECKS.

illustration
CAUTION: DO NOT BRING EACH AIR CHAMBER TO FULL PRESSURE BEFORE INFLATING THE OTHER CHAMBERS! The bulkheads are designed to "float" (see illustration #3). Inflating one chamber at a time to full pressure can cause undue strain and failure of the bulkheads.

TRANSPORTATION

More damage is done to rafts during transportation off the river than on the river. WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT RAFTS BE PROTECTED WITH TARPS OR BOAT BAGS DURING TRANSPORTATION! When transporting an inflated raft, ensure that the raft is secured to the trailer and that all points of abrasion are padded. Driving an inflated raft over a mountain pass will DRAMATICALLY increase pressure. If the raft is to be deflated during transportation, it is best to reverse your pump during deflation, remove all the air from the boat, and secure the valves. This allows the raft to be folded into a smaller package. Again, ensure that all likely points of abrasion (particularly sharp, folded edges) are securely padded during transportation. WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THE USE OF BOAT BAGS OR TARPS!

CLEANING/STORAGE

Prior to storage, your raft should be cleaned. Warm water with a liquid detergent, such as Wisk, plus a small amount of bleach, works well. A PLASTIC scrub pad is effective. Wash down the raft with clean water first, removing all sand, grit, stones, and other abrasive materials that may have accumulated in use. Use soap, water, and elbow grease to clean and remove dirt. CAUTION: DO NOT USE WIRE BRUSHES OR METAL FIBER SCRUB PADS! On the urethane surface, lightly abrasive cleansers, like soft scrub or small amounts of MEK, can be used sparingly.
BE CAREFUL IN HANDLING MEK! USE A WELL-VENTILATED AREA! Prior to storage, thoroughly check, clean, and (if necessary) lubricate the valves. Ideally, the raft should be stored semi-inflated (enough to keep its shape) in a clean, dry place on a non-abrasive surface.
IF THE RAFT MUST BE STORED FOLDED, MAKE SURE IT IS CLEAN AND DRY, THEN FOLD AS SHOWN IN ILLUSTRATION #2.

FOLDING YOUR BOAT

It is best to fold the raft loosely to avoid unnecessary creasing. When storing the raft, keep it covered with a tarp and out of the water. Avoid folding or storing the raft on abrasive surfaces like concrete.

Boat   Boat   Boat
1. Fully deflate with a pump.
2. Secure all valves.
3. Dust with talcum powder.
  4. Use the above fold lines for
best results.
  5. Fold over side tubes as pictured.
NOTE: AVOID FOLDING AT VALVES, BULKHEADS, AND AT HARDWARE POINTS SUCH AS THE D-RINGS.
         
Boat   Boat    
6. Fold opposite side over top of previous fold.   7. Begin folding at one end until the boat is completely rolled.
NOTE: IT MAY TAKE SOME EXPERIMENTING TO DETERMINE THE SMALLEST POSSIBLE FOLD DEPENDING ON THE BOAT SIZE/MODEL.
  ONCE YOUR RAFT IS ROLLED, WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU WRAP IT IN THE TARP THAT CAME WITH YOUR MARAVIA Ð AND SECURE THE ENTIRE, ENCLOSED BOAT WITH SEVERAL CAM STRAPS.

REPAIR

For detailed repair instructions, refer to the instruction card in your repair kit. NOTE: THERE ARE ITEMS THAT YOU NEED TO ACQUIRE AND ADD TO YOUR REPAIR KIT TO MAKE IT COMPLETE. (SEE REPAIR KIT CONTENTS LIST). ALSO NOTE THAT GLUE AND CATALYST NEED TO BE REPLACED ANNUALLY – THEY LOSE THEIR EFFECTIVENESS WITH AGE.
Your raft has a seamless coating of urethane on the outside of the raft form. When repairing the raft, YOU MUST FIRST SAND ANY URETHANE SURFACE WHERE A PATCH WILL BE APPLIED, roughing it so the glue will stick. The inside of the raft form is a plastomer coating that can be cleaned and prepped or repaired with a rag damp with MEK. The repair kit has material that is plastomer coated on one side and colored urethane on the other. The plastomer side can be prepped with MEK. No sanding is necessary. SEE THE REPAIR CARD ENCLOSED IN YOUR REPAIR KIT!
The pigments in the urethane coating will change with continued exposure to sunlight. This is more noticeable and will occur sooner in light-colored rafts. Storage in a location away from sunlight will delay this change.

SELF-BAILING FLOORS

CAUTION: OPERATING PRESSURE ON YOUR SELF-BAILING FLOOR IS 1.0 TO 1.5 PSI. PAY ATTENTION! THIS INFORMATION WILL SAVE YOUR FLOOR AND IMPROVE YOUR RAFT’S PERFORMANCE! GET A LOW-RANGE PRESSURE GAUGE AND TEST WHAT THIS FEELS LIKE.

Air-adjustable shocks are an option on cars that allow you to change the type of ride you get according to the load you are carrying and the terrain. Your Maravia self-bailer can do the same.

IN BIG WATER, WHEN YOU ARE MORE CONCERNED ABOUT FLIPPING, YOU SHOULD RUN YOUR FLOOR VERY SOFT. IT SHOULD FEEL LIKE A STANDARD FLOOR, EASILY DEPRESSED BY LIGHT HAND PRESSURE. This allows the floor to ride up inside the raft. The side tubes sit down in the water lower. Your center of gravity is lower. The raft tracks a little better. It drains slower, carrying more water, more weight, through holes.

THE VALVE (see illustration #1)

Your raft comes equipped with either Maravia AD-2 , and/or a Halkey-Roberts or the C-7 valves. All valves are poppit-type with a center, spring-loaded, two-position poppit stem. WHEN THE POPPIT IS IN THE UP POSITION, AIR CAN BE FORCED INTO THE VALVE AND THE SPRING PRESSURE WILL RESET THE SEAL. DEPRESSING AND TURNING THE POPPIT 1/4 TURN WILL LOCK IT OPEN, ALLOWING AIR TO EXIT THE VALVE.

The core of the AD-2 valve screws into a threaded opening in the valve boot, using the hex-shaped flange on the valve core. The AD-2 valve core may be tightened or removed using a 2-inch socket (available at hardware stores or from Maravia). The Halkey-Roberts and C-7 valve have a core that screws into a backing inside the raft. It can be tightened or removed using a wrench available from Maravia. All valves come with a cap. THE VALVE CAP IS PART OF THE AIR-HOLDING SYSTEM. The valve cap is important to keep the valve core clean and to keep the valve system operational.

Rubber O-rings are designed into the valves to help create an airtight seal. As the O-rings age, they may become hard and lose the ability to make a seal. THIS CAN BE SOLVED BY A QUICK SQUIRT OF WD-40 INTO THE VALVE CORE PERIODICALLY OR AT THE END OF EACH SEASON OF USE.

points

FLOOR VALVES (for rafts with self-bailing floors)

Valves that are on the side tube are constantly washed out, giving less chance for sand, dirt, and water to enter when the valve is opened. The floor valve requires a little more care. Before opening, pour a bucket of water on the valve and wash away dirt and sand. Then use the first few strokes of your pump to blow residual water and dirt from around the opening. DO NOT ALLOW WATER OR DIRT TO ENTER THE INFLATED FLOOR.